my PC-300 D board that I repaired. See the 220uf 25v cap. See also a 250uf 25 vcap
laying loose. If you want it..I can send it along for free. It tests good and has fairly low
ESR as per my test. however..might be a bit big.
Atlas 210x.. Miscellaneous Pictures (closeups) I took for various fellows who
are/were fixing their rigs. -- UPDATED 27 April 2016 -
new info (rebuilding circuit cards)
I have been busy the last week or so working on the
Atlas 210x circuit boards. I bought about 10 plug in
boards for the Atlas 210x from a fellow in USA.
These boards all needed a bit of work. Some mods
were "undone" some mistakes were corrected and
now Ive got a number of these boards available to  
hams who want to fix their 210x.

You can see the tools I was using. in the picture. I had
a smokers fan that I put a carbon filter on to get some
of the smoke away and filtered. Not shown in the
picture are the other 2 air purifier filters in the work
area.

I found I preferred using a large soldering gun (200
watt) that (if used carefully) could quickly heat up the
solder joints at components such as old Electrolytic
Capacitors and I would pry them out with a screwdriver.

To clean the hole in the circuit board I again used the
large soldering gun and I used a sewing pin that my
wife gave me. I heated the pin up and shoved the pin
through the appropriate hole and then cleaned away
solder. Sometimes I would use desoldering braid and a
bit of flux -- BUT -- there are strong fumes from solder
rosin and I tried to minimize its use. See picture below
of the rosin flux and the braid.
When I go about rebuilding and/or re-capping circuit boards;
I like to use sockets for  the ICs. This enables me to swap
them out at a later time if they ever get defective. LM380s;
the audio amp ICs - do go bad from time to time.
So-- while I was at it - replacing the old electrolytics with
newer and low ESR electrolytics - I went one step furthur and
used Single In  Line (SIP) machined pin sockets and made 14
pin Dip sockets on the board.

NOW..the LM380 requires some heatsinking -- so I will be
adding a homemade heatsink for the chip.
Pictured on the left is a board being populated with newer components. I use
Nippon Low ESR Japanese capacitors. They are NIPPON Brand KY series. See
the picture below.

Above pictured is the bottle of Rosin Flux. It has a strong odour and Im not
sure its all that good for ones health. I try and use it sparingly as a result. So I
have developed a METHOD OF REMOVING OLD COMPONENTS - that  minimizes
the use of flux and desoldering braid.
Basically you could call it the ARMSTRONG Method of removing components.
You pry them out ie old electrolytic capacitors or diodes ect. Basically using
fingers and screwdriver and other prying tools and then to clean up the board
and free up the hole for through hole components............you use a sewing pin
with a little plasic ball on top to grip. Worked well for me.
Below pictured is the quick and dirty method of clearing old solder from the through
holes on the circuit board. You have to heat the pin up with a high power soldering iron
and it goes through then you clean up the solder splashes ect. Works well for me. I go
through alot less desoldering braid this way and it is quicker and results in less solder
smoke and fumes.
Above pictured is a trimmer capacitor that I found on several of
the boards. It does not show up in the manual under
schematics so I took this component out.

Below fans with charcoal filters. One on left is a old smokers
fan with filter from the square fan and the fan below is
manufactured specifically for solder fumes and has the
charcoal filters that I stocked up on.
Above pictured the Atlas 210x test radio. I use it now only for testing the circuit boards I rebuild and work on. Ive sold off the
knobs the S meter and the dial drum. NOTE: I do have a spare dial drum I can sell.
In the forefront are the circuit boards. Some of them work and others still need a bit of TLC. I work at them from time to time as
time allows.
This poor Atlas has given up some
of its parts but it still functions.

I use it as a test bed for the circuit
boards.

It might be a good candidate for a
DDS vfo and digital dial.

AADE - Almost all Digital
Electronics used to have a good
digital dial kit for Atlas 210xs and
other vintage rigs. I still have mine
that I built into an old FT301. I think
AADE is no longer in business.

Probably there are commercial kits
and dds vfos ect that can be
adapted to the Atlas radios.
Here are some more spare parts for
the Atlas. The extender board is not
for sale but the dial drive parts and the
dial drum are.

Dial drum I will sell for $7 and the dial
drive (Jackson drive units $6.50 each
(all prices in U.S. dollars) and the
smaller dial drive units $4 each.
Below pictured a couple of scrap
210x units. Many parts have been
sold off but not all the parts.

I have 2 spare final RF output units
and I can test them if someone is
interested in buying them.
Left pictured is the Atlas 210x I used to operate before I
started selling off the parts. Notice the main tuning knob is a
substitute knob. Someone wanted a main tuning knob so I
sold it off.

I still have a couple of the external digital dials if someone
wants one. One is working fine as I recall and the other one
has a pixel or two out in the main display but does work.
I'm always in the market to buy old
radios. I pay the postage for donations.
They dont have to work. I will test the
subassemblies and part them out OR..I
will probably first try and get them
working.

I buy old parts collections as well.

My email is earl@nettyelectronics.com
and Id be glad to hear from you.

I travel from Elliot Lake to Sudbury
from time to time and down to Ottawa
in the early fall and in May. I regularly
attend the ham radio flea markets at
that time. I have a table in the vendors
area with my NETTY ELECTRONICS
banner plain to see.

73 earl ve3ab
Another picture of the through hole clearing procedure. I use the
large soldering gun to heat the pin and shove it through and wiggle it
around and remove the crud. Where there is alot of old solder I will
take out the desoldering braid and clean things up. Most of the time I
scrape things away with finger nails and razor blade and small screw
drivers used as scrapers. I try to avoid using desoldering braid in
order to minimize me breathing in fumes.
One thing Ive done is snap a bunch of digital pictures of these circuit boards.
This one is the PC300D board. You can see the boards do have some
components on the opposite side of the board. Some are legitimate as these
mods were done during manufacture but some are improvised by hams and
these mods are almost always never documented. IF they are documented in
a manual or notebook.... often the documentation does not follow the radio
when sold or when the ham is deceased or incapacitated and the gear gets
sold off.

YOu see the " D " in the picture for the rev of the board (revision D).
Sometimes.. when Im working on boards like these.. I will tape them to the work
bench. It is a quick and dirty way of doing things. A better way would be to use a
type of circuit card holder vise.
Here I am installing an IC socket using the single in line machined
pins material that comes in 40 breakable sockets. Break them to
size. I sell these SIP sockets for about 75 cents each or you can
buy them easy off ebay and places like Tayda in Thailand. I some-
times use tape to hold them in place to solder. NOTE: SOMETIMES
USING A SOCKET is not all that straightforward. In the case of the
LM380 audio IC -- the circuit board foil makes contact with the
surface of the IC thus conducting away heat. IF you use a socket..
Notice the large 220uf at 50 volt Nippon KY
series electrolytic capacitor (picture left) .
I am using these capacitors because they are
low ESR. NOTE: ESR is Equivilant Series
Resistance. I have tested many of these KY
series capacitors. Most I have ordered off ebay
from Thailand. They all seem to measure very
good low ESR readings.
There is another consideration however, when
it comes to Electrolytic Capacitors and that is
their life expectancy in hours.

I have bought quite a few Nippon KY series but
the next batch of electrolytics I purchase will be
purchased with stronger consideration for
hours of expected service (long life capacitors).
I will be doing the research and I have some of
the data already in my possession.
Note the nice neat Teflon insulating tubing on the above 220uf capacitor. If
you ever get a chance at a flea market to buy Teflon tubing..BUY it! -- I have
some available here in limited stock. It is clear and most importantly does
not get damaged or burned by heat. Makes for a neat job.
This article is almost finished now..
noted: 28 April 2016

I will be adding a wee bit more later.



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Nov 6 2016 close ups of PC900 board.